“Make-up artists should develop an OCD for cleanliness and hygiene.” - Celebrity make-up artist Cory Walia

Celebrity makeup artist Cory Walia has revolutionised the way makeup is perceived in India. He has worked with top-models, A-list actors, countless beautiful brides, and top-of-the-line make-up brands for several decades. In a virtual conversation with Kanishka Ramchandani, he shares his views, tips, and invaluable experience on matters of hygiene and safety in the hope that the make-up industry will re-invent itself, rise above the pandemic, and march forward.

Tell us about a make-up artist’s toolkit – how to build it up and maintain it, especially in these pandemic times?

The main components of a toolkit are brushes, applicators, and of course make-up, but in my case, for the past twenty odd years, I have been keeping surgical masks in my kit as well. I always thought it is essential – if I had a cold, I would certainly not want to pass it on to the bride! Needless to mention if the bride had a cold, I did not want it either! The second thing I have had in my kit for years is sanitizer. Often I used to carry my own soap, to wash my hands and my brushes. These practices have a been a part of my quorum forever.

Given the pandemic times again – what do you make of disposable brushes?

But brushes are so expensive! And sometimes, certain endangered species are killed to make a brush – which I am completely against. So it is time to invent – make-up accessory makers ought to be thinking about the future and come up with ideas for one-time use, eco-friendly brushes that are affordable. They (make-up accessory makers) have really got to innovate and invent. And, in fact, we as members of this industry, need to come in and be able to take the industry forward standing up. We cannot let it fall to pieces because we cannot deal with things. Which once again brings me to how a UV sterilisation kit is essential. You have to convince the client that you work at a scientific level and that there is zero chance of transmitting a pathogen. We are artists – we innovate!

“In addition to training, innovation and common sense are essential.”

Is a PPE suit required?

Salon groups are constantly looking for new tech and gear – and the PPE suit is like a space suit. Of course, I can wear one, but I cannot put it on my client! What I believe is that masks, gloves, and steralisation, are important plus they build confidence. Our work is like that of a dentists or an ENT – we should try and use what is disposable but we also have to re-learn and re-invent, so we can find a quick solution to make ourselves commercially viable again.

How do you use minimum product and still be safe?

I can use a cotton bud for eye shadow and lipstick and then throw it away while saving product, but I cannot use my brushes one time and then throw them away. You can also use surgical grade steel or disposable palettes and blend small amounts of make-up and then use a disposable applicator. You must invent and work backwards to eliminate the possibilities of contamination.

What of lip liners and kajals?

Naturally, they cannot be taken to a pallete – so you re-invent. After one application, you can sharpen the pencil, wipe, clean the tip, and sharpen again – I have been doing through-out my career anyway and it works! I also keep changing the pencils as often as possible. It is the same for lip-liners. Once again, with a UV steriliser, in 20 minutes, you can kill any pathogens that might be on the make-up.

What would you like to contribute to this new world?

I would love to be a consultant and to give to manufacturers tips from what is in my head, and help the industry re-invent itself for the times. When brands do consult us, we have a lot of input on how to deal with precautions against the virus – manufacturers must come into the field and ask the makeup-artists for ideas. They have to, for instance, find and innovative solutions for single use packaging for make-up that is economically viable, in one-time use packaging, and that’s eco-friendly…it is got to be a synergy and people have to think at so many levels! Common sense is the main requirement.

“Make-up accessory makers ought to come up with ideas for one-time use, eco-friendly brushes that are affordable.”

Given that most make-up artists are freelancers – how do they ensure that their tool kits, clients, and they themselves stay safe.

In addition to training, innovation and common sense are essential. We (make-up artists) have to use all the techniques that we use to ‘simply live’ our lives in these times, for our work as well – for instance, I keep everything that comes into my home, such as groceries, in the sun-light, and make-up artists should do the same when back from a job. If you need to wear a PPE suit, then do so. Just do whatever is necessary to ensure that the client is safe and you are safe. Our thinking is undergoing a revolution – we are living in a paranoia, and if someone is careless, the consequences can be dire. My advice is to be cautious, alert, careful, not use short-cuts, innovate and let us get back on our feet with common sense and intelligent thinking.

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