March Towards Sustainability

Does sustainability make business sense, and how can the beauty industry embrace eco practices? Shriyal Sethumadhavan talks to industry experts to find answers.

The beauty industry in India is explicitly criticised for being one amongst the leading causes of environmental degradation. Be it the mindless discarding of non-biodegradable, toxic, plastic packaging, or large-scale chemical pollution from factory discharge, or cruel animal testing practices – the industry has been responsible for having an array of negative impacts on the ecosystem.

On a positive note, a clean beauty movement has started in India, and a few companies are leading the movement. The ongoing pandemic has also brought to light conscious consumers who are opting for clean, natural, and ethical products. Being sustainable means being eco conscious and responsible towards to the planet, and fortunately, embracing sustainability can also have benefits for businesses. Today, the skincare industry is seeing the clean beauty wave take centre-stage in the country, and is working to counter damage, introduce transparency and be more sustainable. On a positive note, a clean beauty movement has started in India, and a few companies are leading the movement. The ongoing pandemic has also brought to light conscious consumers who are opting for clean, natural, and ethical products. Being sustainable means being eco conscious and responsible towards to the planet, and fortunately, embracing sustainability can also have benefits for businesses. Today, the skincare industry is seeing the clean beauty wave take centre-stage in the country, and is working to counter damage, introduce transparency and be more sustainable.

Does it make good business sense?

While industry experts largely agree that it does make good business sense, the question for many others is – how?

“It can make good business sense, and there is no better time than now to prove it,” says Priscilla Corner, Managing Partner, June Tomkyns, Referring to the “less is more” lifestyle change, she adds, “Being locked down at home first forced upon us, and then made us embrace, becoming a ‘kitchen remedy DIY sustainable beauty Goddess’.” She views the beauty arena now primed for those who want to make their sustainability presence felt.

Blossom Kochhar, Chairperson, Blossom Kochhar Group of Companies, sees sustainability as the way to move forward, especially in the beauty industry. “Many products that we use can cause harm to the environment,” she says. Backing it up with examples, she talks about glitter, that goes into the earth, and especially the seas, and harms marine life. She explains the questions a salon faces – If a client comes, how many towels should I use – six or three? How much cotton am I using? How much water am I using to wash the hair? And how can I recycle the water? Am I doing something that is depleting natural resources, depleting the earth, damaging the environment? Kochhar adds, “There are six towels you use on a client and bringing it down to three towels automatically brings down cost. If I am going to use more natural detergent compared to any more chemically treated detergent, it becomes cheaper.”

“It all depends on what scale of sustainability you want to go into.” Vikram Mohan, CEO & Co-founder, Spalon India – Bounce, says, “I truly believe that we have opened the first eco salon to the truest sense in India, where we are almost 80 per cent solar powered, we recycle all the hair wash water by sending it back into the WC, use the highest grade of LED lights, and have completely got rid of single use plastic.” However, these eco-interventions did have a price. Speaking of solar installations for electricity, Mohan shares, “This involved a huge initial investment, however, during the pre-COVID times, we were already saving almost 95 per cent of our electricity bill. Hence, certainly there are long term benefits.” He emphasises on the need to educate your team and clients. “You cannot eco-operate without keeping your customers informed. We tell our customers that the carbon footprint that we are reducing is the carbon footprint that you are reducing, and they are only more appreciative.”

For Pushkaraj Shenai, CEO, Lakmé Lever, sustainability makes sense for business both in the short as well as long term. “Less wastage, more effective results, regulated temperatures – these measures positively impact the business and our bottomline across salons,” he says, adding that people are now more aware and keener on associating with sustainable brands, and by being so, “we are able to delight more customers every day.” When done thoughtfully, sustainability can also help save costs by reducing waste and spending mindfully. “And of course,” he adds, “to run a business, we need to have a world that is healthy and beautiful.”

“We have seen the birth of new beauty jargon, which is marketing related or used for greenwashing”, says Samir Srivastav, CEO, Jean-Claude Biguine Salons India. However, he adds that if an organisation makes the effort to go green and adopt effective practices, the changes can produce strategic and financial rewards. “By introducing innovative solutions, you can gain client trust, increase sales revenue, and up your market value.” Srivastav mentions initiatives such as saving water, using energyefficient lightbulbs, waste management, and, offering high quality, well-priced and ethically sourced products and services that can give the brand an edge over others.

Sustainability can make good business sense specially when we are trying to create a society which is completely responsible, says Dr Renuka Thergaonkar, Director, R&D Global Consultants. Referring to sustaining in these uncertain times, she adds, “Increasing innovation and the development of new revenue opportunities is the key to the beauty industry today. Now, when  most cosmetic companies are trying to save money and improve productivity by reducing waste and inefficiencies, gaining greater confidence in regulatory compliance data and processes as well as responding to the rapidly changing market shifts or consumer needs, sustainability looks like good business sense.”

Sustainability requirements deal with the proper use of resources, increased literacy, reduction in waste generation, and creating conventional and non-conventional (herbal extraction, organic farming) resources. This requirement aims at creating a new normal – sustainability for the future – by reducing one’s carbon footprint by using science and technology. “Today with this impact, the consumers expect the current marketed formulas to be converted to formulas with renewable materials using green ingredients,” says Dr Thergaonkar. “As research impacts all aspects of the product innovation lifecycle – from adherence to new environmental regulations to the creation of greener products and services – the emphasis is more on making it a complete reasonable and lucrative opportunity.”

“Sustainability and goodness have no market value and initially require a lot of effort,” says Divya Kohli, Distributor, Davines & Comfort Zone in India, and Founder, Tangy Rose.

“Sustainability will ultimately win the race as the youth of today are more conscious about protecting humankind and the environment. It is a conscious choice we have to make in all our work practices to improve the world around us. Using products with harmful ingredients to gain business is not ethical.” She believes that considering a long-term approach with your team and your clients, and by helping them awaken their minds and souls to good sustainable beauty practices is the way forward – “the Indian beauty industry will migrate to a true pioneer in wellness and sustainability.”

Sustainable initiatives

There are some wonderful eco-conscious efforts that have been taken by brands and salons that one can draw inspiration from:

More than 20 years ago, Davines recognised that beauty and sustainability go together, which is why its tagline is ‘Beauty + Sustainability’.

“We interpret sustainability in several ways: It prioritises a positive impact on the environment, does not compromise the quality or quantity of natural ingredients, lends itself to intuition and creation, and ensures transparency,” says Kohli. She adds, “Biodegradable ingredients play a big role in Davines formulas — as rather than create waste, they simply return to the earth. One overarching way we stay sustainable is with our commitment to renewable energy and our offsetting of carbon dioxide equivalent emissions. Every April, The Davines Group encourages their salons to fundraise for The Fruit Tree Planting Foundation, a non-profit charity that helps provide food and income generation to communities and families in need globally. The company has been a certified B Corp since 2016, to achieve which, it went through a rigorous performance assessment by non-profit B Lab® . Also, in collaboration with Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity, each of Davines’ nine product families that are a part of the essential haircare line includes one active ingredient from a Slow Food Presidium.

Having already mentioned electricity savings, Mohan from Bounce adds to the salon’s green initiatives. “We have adopted the use of disposable towels. These may be two to three rupees more expensive than the regular towel but they biodegrade in 60 days. Similarly, water and beverages are served in biodegradable cups. We have embraced a completely paperless approach.” In terms of design, without compromising on the look and feel of the place, he adds that upcycled furniture – reused furniture – can be considered. Automatic light sensors can be installed in the rooms, which automatically sense and operate basis the room being vacant or occupied. Also, new salons can opt for water nozzles which reduces the flow of water by 30 per cent. Existing salons can opt for water saving nozzles, through which, water comes out like a mist. “We took away carry bags and made our bags in the shape of a wine bottle that can be reused for gifting purpose. Also, for garbage collection, we use bags that decompose in about 120 days. Plus, all these efforts make no sense if you are not working with an eco-conscious brand, and we work with B Corp certified Davines exclusively.”

From JCB Salons, Srivastav says, “We are in the process of launching Biguine Natural Hair Care Range from France and Italy. Post lockdown, we introduced reusable Zero Risque jackets and masks in all our salons –a stark contrast to disposable PPE suits – making it a more sustainable choice. We also joined the ‘Vocal for Local’ tidal wave that swept the nation adding the ‘make in India’ stamp of authenticity in our salons with the introduction of Pahadi Local – an honest homegrown brand that bottles clean, pure and chemical-free ingredients with ethical sourcing.

Dr Renuka Thergaonkar, Director, R&D Global Consultants: “Sustainability is a way by which the beauty industry can meet the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs. Sustainability should be the new normal now. Not only from the environmental perspective but also from the social and economic aspect, sustainability should become a part of the beauty industry.”

In the beauty industry, if someone wants to adopt sustainability, Dr Renuka Thergaonkar suggests the below aspects as a starting point:

We joined hands with the US-based Olivia Garden to launch EcoHair Bamboo Brushes. We ensure that we only associate with brand partners who match our core ethics and principles. One of our leading brand partners, L’Oreal has committed to 100 per cent reusable, recyclable, or compostable packaging by 2025. Our skincare brand partner Phyt’s is a leading French name in ‘Certified Organic Skincare’. Moroccanoil too is tapping into the creativity of Parsons students to design environmentally friendly packaging. And Essensity by Schwarzkopf in our service portfolio essentially offers ammonia-free hair colour and is derived from natural ingredients.”

Automatic light sensors can be installed in the rooms in salons, which automatically sense and operate basis the room being vacant or occupied.

Sustainability is at the core for Blossom Kochhar Aroma Magic. “We are working hard to make all endeavours as sustainable as we possibly can,” says Kochhar. She adds, “We have ‘Earth to Bottle’ 170 signature aromatherapy skin, hair, and wellness products – sustainably blending nature’s plant extracts to provide natural healing from within. We do not subscribe to evil ingredients and do not believe in animal testing. Ingredients are sourced from indigenous locals and tribes, like the Kurumba tribe in the Nilgiris. We believe in fair trade practices and environmentally friendly, recyclable packaging. Additionally, our products are sustainably harvested, with as little disturbance as possible to the local tribe. Our bottles, jars, and caps are recyclable; and some of our packaging includes a capsule which can be planted along with the carton and blooms into a lovely plant. Our E-commerce section does not use any plastic material for packaging. At Blossom Kochhar Aroma Magic Green Salons, we have installed a plastic collection box where we collect empty recyclable plastic bottles. We also have a green wall to remove air toxins released by colours and hair products. We have applied a no plastic policy where we do not encourage plastic shopping bags, plastic cutlery, or cups.”

Eco-friendly June Tomkyns Salon was started in 2015. Corner shares the salons sustainable endeavours: “To use ammonia free colours; offer the sulphate-free shampoos alternative; use recycled paper bags for our retail goods; use Formaldehydefree Keratin products; adopt and espouse energy saving methodologies such as long-lasting light bulbs, conserving water at all times by seeing to leaking taps and pipes and stopping unnecessary use of hair dryers; and curbing the use of plastic!”

Lakmé Salon has taken several initiatives to position itself one step higher in becoming more sustainable. Shenai shares some of these measures adopted across all salons: “50 per cent reduction in water consumption; ACs kept at an optimal temperature of 24°; a switch to 100 per cent LED lighting; paperless billing; high oxygen indoor plants; and biodegradable disposables (even single-use spatulas are made of wood in the current scenario). We have planted over 50,000 trees over the past two years, offsetting our carbon footprint.”

Highlighting the key sustainable initiatives being taken, Dr Thergaonkar says, “We are reducing our carbon footprint by utililising lesser energy through our formulation designs. Also, water consumption is being reduced and newer ways of optimising the existing resources is what we are doing today. In research and development, we are looking at products with less foam, simple manufacturing processes which requires least energy, and renewable energy resources. Solar energy is the preferred form of energy. We are also looking at reusable packaging as cosmetic packaging is one of the major causes of pollution. We are creating products that can be stored in packageless forms or in reusable containers.”

The eco report card

The bottom line is that there is no planet B! But how much has the beauty industry looked after this planet? The PBHJ team reached out to industry experts to understand their ranking for the beauty industry as far as adopting sustainability practices, currently, are concerned. The ranking had to be allocated on a scale of 1-5, with 5 being the best.

Dr Thergaonkar ranks the Indian beauty industry at a 1 on 5. “Although many companies have started incorporating changes in ingredients and packaging, it will take a substantial amount of time to see the results for the same,” she says. “In India, companies are presently looking at ingredient and packaging sustainability, but are yet to look at energy consumption, product forms (non-foaming shampoos), which require less water consumption for rinsing or waterless products, sustainability in sourcing and distribution to day-to-day functioning and operational activities.” Taking the example of water, she adds that recognising the importance of effectively managing this precious (but limited) resource, cosmetics companies and salons should try to map the amount of water used along the cosmetics value chain. “Once companies start looking at these aspects, it will hardly take time for the Indian beauty industry to become a leader in sustainability.”

Srivastav of Jean-Claude Biguine Salons India, ranks the industry at a 2. “Awareness seems to be building up, and brands are gradually waking up to this,” he says. “Presently it is mostly driven by MNCs operating in India, international brands as well as a few Indian entrepreneurs, but the bulk of the industry is yet to take noticeable steps.”

By recognising the importance of effectively managing water, cosmetic companies and salons should try to map the amount of this precious resource used along the cosmetics value chain.

Corner ranks the industry a 2 on 5. She says, “I have seen the mammoth collective effort the beauty industry took to educate the fraternity and others, about the sanitisation requirements during the pandemic. No stone was left unturned to get the hygiene protocol message across. If that same effort is put into educating our community and consumers about sustainability, it will be a win-win for all.”

Ironically, she adds that sustainability can be an expensive alternative, with sulphate-free shampoos, formaldehyde free keratin and the “five free” in nail polishes being comparatively higher priced then the less ecologically safe alternatives. “However, if we can get clients to understand that “cheaper is dearer” in the long run, and that the mentioned products, though expensive, will leave the environment and therefore us, healthy and beautiful, we could move up from the current sustainability rankings, to a 5/5!

Kochhar shares her honest response: “I do not think we can really give a figure to this.” She adds, “Due to the pandemic, we had to cut costs and manage things accordingly. Today, wellness has become the core focus point. There is an awareness that is building up, and putting a number or figure is not appropriate. What we all need to do is to be a part of the movement.”

Also, not wanting to throw out any ranking, Mohan says “we are quite blind right now.” He adds, “Evidently, our salon industry collectively is not looking at the environment. It is not a prerogative and priority.”

It is clear that the sustainability march has begun, however, momentum is yet to pick up and the beauty industry collectively need to take responsibility towards protecting the planet and its inhabitants, both today and in the future.

A global perspective: Embrace sustainable and natural beauty

Lorraine Dallmeier is a biologist, Chartered Environmentalist, and the CEO of online organic cosmetic formulation school Formula Botanica, UK.

When asked what sustainability in the beauty industry means to her, she responds, “Sustainable cosmetics are those that can be produced to meet consumer demands without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs. Conscious consumerism is changing the way beauty products are viewed, bought, and used. The future of beauty will embrace fewer, longer lasting, multipurpose formulations that are sourced, manufactured, packaged, shipped, and disposed of responsibly and sustainably. Dallmeier shares her perspective by responding to a few more questions from Shriyal Sethumadhavan.

Do you agree that being sustainable can make good business sense, and how? Not only can sustainability make good business sense, but it ‘must’ make good business sense. It is important to remember that the concept of sustainability is based on the three core principles of people, planet, and profit, which is why a sustainable business is also one that is commercially viable. However, to embrace sustainability, the beauty industry must move beyond the outdated economic model that we can achieve infinite economic growth with finite resources.

How is sustainability driving new solutions in innovative cosmetic packaging? The beauty industry produces over 140 billion units of packaging per year, which is having a dreadful effect on the environment, given that global levels of plastic recycling consistently fall below 10 per cent of all plastic that goes to waste. The beauty industry has finally woken up to the fact that its approach to packaging is unsustainable and is now starting to explore new packaging solutions, such as paper or cardboard-based solutions, as well as types of plastic that break down quicker or even innovative mushroom-derived packaging.

However, it is important to note that creating more innovative packaging will not take care of the root cause, as consumers still buy too many beauty products. The average woman has an incredible 16 beauty products on her bathroom shelf, which is a thoroughly unsustainable level of consumption that is still actively being encouraged by the mainstream beauty industry. Simply adding those lotions, serums, cleansers, toners, and exfoliators to slightly better packaging will not take away the fact that we are using up our planet’s resources at an unsustainable level. We cannot shop ourselves to sustainability.

Highlight the key sustainability initiatives that you have taken in your business operations and functioning.

Formula Botanica positions itself as a school that embraces sustainable and natural beauty and provides a viable alternative education to mainstream cosmetics. We have rolled our sustainability policy for 2021 in which we pledge the following:

• Any ingredients used in our free or paid teaching materials must be obtained from sustainable sources. Formula Botanica does not use endangered plant species in its teaching materials.

• All formulation taught in our free content and paid materials and should be undertaken with sustainability in mind.

• We aim to embed a philosophy of low consumption beauty, multipurpose or multi-functional beauty and long-lasting beauty in our teaching material so this ethos is passed on to our graduates.

• Formula Botanica operates a virtual, home-based business model and therefore has limited overheads in its operations. Nonetheless, we should always seek to minimise our own footprint. We prioritise video calls over in-person meetings when long travel is involved, we operate a carbon neutral web server, we pledge to offset the carbon emissions of any work-related flights and trips, and we will seek to offset our overall estimated carbon footprint each year. Formula Botanica also donates up to 1 per cent of its revenue to charities that contribute to sustainability and conservation work.