Not just skin deep

What does sustainability mean to the makeup and skincare industry? Tasneem Hatimbhai offers some answers.

The makeup, beauty and skincare industry have been in the limelight for perhaps not being the most sustainable or eco-friendly businesses. However, globally, and increasingly in India, this is changing. So, what is required to be ‘green’? It is conserving water, using recycled packaging, or supporting organically sourced products? Or does the void lie in the lack of awareness about what it means to be a green industry, which comes foremost from the education of industry professionals and its clients?

While some industry experts have initiated the ‘green’ movement and are working to be the change they wish to see, others are more skeptical and think the responsibility should be co-opted

Green march

The skincare and makeup industry is definitely playing its part in being sustainable and eco-friendly today. But where does the industry stand in terms of adopting a sustainable and eco-friendly approach?

Namrata Soni, Makeup and Hair Artist, says, “As an entrepreneur at Simply Nam, I have made a conscious effort to be eco-friendly and leave a smaller carbon footprint in the world. But it is also about educating everybody to understand what sustainability is and how to contribute towards it.”

“Salons and spas have been spending a lot of money to tell people to look after themselves in the name of wellness, and feeling and looking better, but they have not put in an equal effort in creating sustainable or eco-friendly solutions,” says Asha Hariharan, Salon and Education Consultant. She adds that customers want quick solutions, and this leads to salons sometimes using products or single-use packaging, which is detrimental. “Large companies are being conscientious and find eco solutions. They are looking at every aspect of safety and sustainability from sourcing ingredients to processing, to singling out the ingredient and to how they use it, looking at how that product must be made in terms of finishing formula, and finally at the packaging.”

Indra Ahluwalia, Founder, Grace Beauty Clinic, shares her perspective. She says, “We do want to go organic, but we are doing a business, and so we have to be result-oriented. A limited section of the society understands what the word ‘organic’ means but the majority demands immediate results, which are not possible with organic products. Treatments with organic products are never kaboom! – it is a process.” Speaking of organic products in salons being a big topic with its pros and cons, she gives the example of a tissue box citing that we use it up instantly because it is easily available. But we have to think ahead, and she adds, “some professionals and manufacturers have taken a good initiative in this regard. Unfortunately, it will take some time. Environmental studies were brought into the school syllabus about a decade back so there is a generation, which is still less responsible towards sustainability.”

Ensuring a sustainable approach There are definitely several ways in which the skincare and makeup professionals can ensure a sustainable and eco-friendly approach.

However, terming sustainable and eco-friendly products as “complicated issues” in the beauty industry, Hariharan, says, “It is a balance between costs, services and how they are carried out, to waste management, and there is also the big question on how to avoid wastage or theft or loss, and therefore there is a trend in recent times to use single use products.” Having said that, she feels that the salon industry is not investing enough time and resources in figuring out how, at every level and service execution, one could go eco-friendly and sustainable. For example, “we could ask our clients to bring back empty bottles,” she says adding, “I had a box for clients to put back bags and paper, so other clients could pick one up if they bought a product from us. Paper takes 5-10 days to decompose while plastic takes 1,000 years.”

Large companies are looking at every aspect of sustainability from sourcing ingredients to processing, to singling out the ingredient, looking at how that product must be made, and finally at the packaging.

The generation after us are inheriting the evils of non-sustainable beauty, says Hariharan pointing out to the makeup industry as a big culprit. She says for example, “we use these beads that are entirely non-biodegradable and are banned in many countries as they eventually find their way to the bottom of the ocean. Also, magnets and mirrors are not biodegradable. Recently, paper packaging is being used in the industry and paper is also fair trade. So, while I do think lots of companies are making the effort, salons need to strive harder. Perhaps every salon could have a small room or niche as a dispensary and hire a person who will dish out the right products according to what is needed.”

For skincare professionals, Soni says, “Use natural ingredients and natural formulations in the facials they give, or products they sell. Today everything is organic, and we have a beautiful, big market in India where some of the best organic products are available.” She adds that it is also about understanding the kind of products required considering the hot and humid climate in India. However, the key point is to educate people to understand that when you are using something organic or sustainable, the shelf life will be lesser than something that is off the shelf.

“Only 20-30 per cent of the clientele understand what organic is, the rest want immediate results,” says Ahluwalia. “In this scenario, more than education, social awareness is important for people to understand the benefits of organic and sustainable materials.” Referring to salon as merely the middlemen in this scenario, she suggests that perhaps the drive of switching to sustainable or organic products should come from either the demand of the clients or a governing body, and manufactures should act as well. Manufacturers should understand CSR or the governing bodies could levy fines for wastage.

Ingredients in ‘green’ products

Undoubtedly, sustainable products are good for the environment. But are they also result-oriented and affordable for the beauty industry?

While the manufacturer might claim for more than 95 per cent of the product to be organic, the rest are still preservatives or chemical ingredients, says Ahluwalia. “Some companies have come up with recycled or recyclable packaging – and that is nice. Organic products are expensive because organic ingredients are used. While this can be explained to clients, but the salon expense increases too. Hence, we must find a balance.”

“Products that are not tested on animals – which are organic and natural – in general involve less waste. It is important to use re-cyclable products, especially in terms of packaging – recyclable plastic and paper – and ensure you are leaving a smaller carbon footprint,” says Soni. She adds, “For a skincare or makeup professional, to ensure good results, it is about understanding what ingredients the products have, what works for which skin type, especially in India, where most places are humid. Encouraging skincare professionals, dermatologists, makeup artists to go the sustainable route is one of the best ways to leave a smaller carbon footprint.” Also understanding that it is not going to happen overnight, she says, “you have to make the choice consciously. Start with using a few products that are sustainable and work for you and gradually give up on those that are not good for the planet.”

Today everything is organic, and we have a beautiful, big market in India where some of the best organic products are available.

It is the duty of a product not just to be functional but deliver results in the most hygienic and safe way possible, however that is not where the story ends for Hariharan. She is proud to be a jury on HPCI – innovation awards for companies. “Here, products are judged on efficiency, safety, sourcing from nature, ethical and eco-friendly and sustainable and if the results are better than that of the predecessor. For large companies, cost is also a huge consideration.” She adds that it is sad that salons buy products from companies that pay for visibility and marketing, but that is no guarantee for sustainability. It is an urgent call! Salons and beauty professionals should encourage local produce. She also mentions that there are small players who are now dedicated to sustainability. They are spreading awareness for ethical products. Packaging is also expensive, but pockets of people want to buy local and be eco-friendly. “I do promote small businesses – they are founder driven and are passionate about their beliefs. Ironically, they are not cheap but do guarantee a bespoke, ethical, and sustainable product. While big companies have the money and muscle to create products in large quantities, they need to learn from smaller manufacturers who are making powerhouse products that do a lot of good.”

Why, go green!

How are these industry stalwarts trying to adopt the use of eco-friendly, organic, and sustainable products in their business?

Namrata Soni: “At Simply Nam and as Namrata Soni the makeup artist, I have tried hard to find products that are vegan, eco-friendly, and organic. Although this is not always possible, but almost 75 per cent of my kit is eco-friendly and sustainable. I do my best research on brands and keep buying what is organic, also to assess how compatible they are with me as a makeup artist. With Simply Nam, we have tried to ensure that we are going the sustainable route. We started with a micro-fibre cloth, eliminating the need for cotton pads, buds, or tissues, which amount to 3.8b in numbers that are used a year! We have tried to eradicate their use with one towel that can be used for five years. We also ensure using less water, leaving a smaller carbon footprint.”

Asha Hariharan: “I have always tried to be sustainable, and that does not just come from products but from how we use and throw them. For example, I refuse to use health hazards in my salon like Brazilian blow where the fumes are a threat to my team, pedicure products that leave a residue, and products in plastic containers or make sure we re-use them. I am also careful about disposing stuff such as residual hair colour; I do not allow the washing of individual brushes or bowls; and we used no plastic mugs or cups in kitchen. So, now what we need is a specific system where somebody should invest and figure out ways for  every salon to become healthy and sustainable and then deliver training and education in the same. It must be engrained into every hairdresser, makeup artist and beautician; it is not something that a manager needs to run after. So unless sustainability becomes a huge movement with a lot of education and success stories, people will not realise the harm they are doing to themselves and the environment. As a salonist, we are the voice of the beauty industry. While a product cannot talk for itself, a salon professional has an important role to play in educating themselves and their clients.”

Unless sustainability becomes a huge movement with a lot of education and success stories, people will not realise the harm they are doing to themselves and the environment.

Indra Ahluwalia: “We have fit LED lights, try to save as much water as possible by introducing waterless manicures and predicures, and 40 per cent of our products are organic. We have made separate disposable tools for hygeine but do not just throw them away – we give them to the client to use at home. And the next time they visit the salon, we give them new packets. Further, we have to guide clients and hope the manufacturers change as well. We use what the company gives us, so once again it is up to the manufacturers. We try and talk to clients, but it is challenging – we talk about how true beauty is inside and outside and how using organic sustainable products will help in the long run. But this is only understood by 20-30 per cent of the clients and we end up paying higher prices for organic products, which are not necessarily appreciated.

Everyone needs to understand that organic products cost more than the non organics due to more expensive farming practices, tighter government regulations and lower crop yields.” Evidently, sustainability is not a one man show. Be it salon owners, the beauty industry artists, manufacturers, the government or the clients, the path to sustainability has to be approached collectively!