What a bride wants…

Kanishka Ramchandani connects with four of India’s top notch make-up artists to know more about their signature bridal looks and how they have evolved over the years to have an established style.

… is to look her stunning best on her wedding day! Her make-up artist plays a pivotal role in turning this dream into a reality. Weddings in India are a grand affair that are full of intimate moments. The way a bride looks and feels right through the pre-wedding functions leading up to the D-Day is important because not only is she the centre of everyone’s attention but her journey as a bride is captured on camera. Whether it is the moment when she arrives at the altar or the one when she says goodbye to her family, everything is experienced with brevity and re-lived through photographs. Understanding how the bride goes through the different phases is instrumental in creating the perfect bridal look. The responsibility rests on the artistic shoulders of the make-up expert and hairstylist to design the bride’s look as per the occasion, her imagination and personality, while adding the personalised touch of perfection of their own. An artist’s signature style greatly benefits the final look that the bride showcases.

This feature focusses on the signature bridal looks that four of India’s top notch make-up artists are known for and how they have evolved over the years to have an established style.

The idea is to make your bride look naturally beautiful and not to make her unrecognisable.

“My bridal make-up is recognised even from a distance,” says Indra Ahluwalia who firmly believes that a happy bride is a beautiful one. Over the years, Indra has developed her own signature style of bridal make-up that is much appreciated and admired by her clientele. She doesn’t shy away from giving bold glamorous looks to her brides as long as she’s confident that they can carry them well. Her in-depth consultation and expertise in bridal grooming has made her an authority on bridal make-up.

Tell us about your signature bridal look.

To me, the most important thing is a happy bride. Trends are for reference, they are not to be followed blindly. When you are only keen on following trends, all your brides will end up looking the same. Suitability is an important part of bridal make-up for me. A trend should be used only if it suits the bride’s face and personality. The definition of make-up is not only using colour but creating a balance and enhancing the features with the help of colours.

People recognise the signature Indra Ahluwalia bride in an instance because I use elements that are suitable for my bride, rather than doing something just because it’s trending. I feel the bride should feel happy and comfortable about her look and she should be admired by people across all age groups.

Trends are dated, they come in phases. And you don’t have to use trends entirely, you can use one element and personalise it for your bride. For instance, Arabic make-up was trending a few years ago but today it is considered old fashioned. Plus not everyone is able to carry Arabic make-up. Your bridal look cannot go wrong if your techniques are right. The bride’s inner beauty should come out. If she can pull off loud make-up, you can do it, but ensure that she is looking beautiful and confident.

Sometimes the bride is new to make-up, she is getting decked up for the first time. That’s when as a makeup artist it is my responsibility to make her understand what will work and what won’t. Thick fake eyelashes are in and a bride will ask for it, but it is my duty to see if her eyes will look good with them. Thick lashes will make small eyes look even smaller. For a bridal look, consultation, designing the look and using the right technique with the right product are key ingredients. It is also important to understand the bride’s background and profession.

Which is your favourite aspect of bridal make-up?

Undoubtedly, the eyes! A bride doesn’t talk much during the wedding rituals so her eyes do a lot of talking. The shape, size and colour of the eyes determine the kind of make-up I would do.

What aspects do you keep in mind during consultation?

I ensure that I get the bride’s entire story through conversations. I get to know where she stays, what’s her profession, her likes and dislikes, whether she does make-up on a regular basis, what kind of make-up she prefers - glamorous or minimal, etc. I also make her understa nd what natural make-up is. It’s not a zero m ake-up look but it’s makeup that makes you look like you. As experts, we have to dec ide what will be the best course of action for her. It is important for me to know her choice. And all my brides look different. I don’t believe in using 2-3 colours and interchange them between the brides. I like to play up her strong features and m ake her look beautiful in her own skin.

Is there anything unique that you do for your brides?

Yes, apart from a personalised eye make-up, I do contouring, blush and highlighting of each of my brides myself.

Any tips on what should be avoided in bridal make-up?

Avoid heavy foundation and work with her natural skin tone. Use concealer intelligently, don’t over do it. The idea is to make your bride look natura lly beautiful and not to make her unrecognisable.

The signature Ojas Rajani bride is glamorous chic yet minimal.

A bride-to-be has a certain vision of herself and tons of Instagram screenshots as references. It is the job of her make-up artist to translate this vision from her mobile phone to her face in real time.

Ojas, with her years of experience of working with Bollywood actresses, knows exactly how it’s done. Known for her flawless dewy make-up for celebrities, Ojas is seen creating the same magic on her brides and teaching it as well to her students. Glamour is a must-have factor in her array of bridal offerings, be it make-up or hair, and making a bride comfortable in her own skin while looking like a million bucks is Ojas’ forte.

How did you evolve your signature bridal look?

When I started my career 24 years ago, I changed the concept of make-up for Bollywood actors and the bridal market. Having studied make-up artistry in the US, I got down to using the no-make-up foundation as opposed to the usual pancake or stick. I proved my critics wrong when I did Aishwarya Rai’s face with the minimal makeup look for a movie. Heavy make-up tends to make you look older. I introduced the concept of how minimal make-up and foundation can make you look like a star.

In movies like Devdas, although the looks were glamorous, the foundation was well-blended and minimal. The signature Ojas Rajani bride is glamorous chic yet minimal.

The bridal make-up also depends on how fashionably you have done the hair. When you have a hairdo to complement the make-up, you get a very red carpet look. That’s why I have a distinct style of doing make-up, especially the eyes, and hair, and that’s what the whole Ojas Rajani look is all about.

Tell us more about your bridal eye make-up.

I like to do a lot of contouring around the eyes. Beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder, so I let the eyes do a lot of talking. I’m not a very big fan of dark lips, I prefer them soft. To give you an example, Katrina Kaif’s make-up is always bang on. Her looks were replicated by many of her peers. Similarly Anushka Sharma’s make-up initially was a disaster but now it is very minimal and glamorous. In the movie Robot, I have done 60 different eye make-up looks for Aishwarya. Makeup is an art that relies on blending. When each element is blended together with another, the end result is very beautiful. When you don’t blend properly, you end up with a heavy look.

What about the bridal hairdo?

Bridal hair is extremely important. It should compliment the bride’s face. For instance, nowadays Hollywood waves are trending but it’s a look that not everyone can pull off. These waves will not look good on a woman with a chubby face and double chin.

When I first started I was probably the first one to do both hair and make-up. So when one artist is doing both, it makes a big difference as one person is in-charge of that bridal vision. It is equally important to understand the fashion aesthetics.

I’m glad that Bollywood has brought in so much inspiration and that I’ve been instrumental in making these creative looks of stars. This makes the brides feel good about channeling the looks of Tara Sutaria or Alia Bhatt.

How have you developed your signature look?

It has happened over the years, especially with all the looks that I’ve created for Aishwarya have made people understand my signature style. I have introduced a westernised element in my make-up. This has enabled me to turn even simple women into glamorous style icons. It’s all about finding the right balance between make-up and hair. There’s a thin line between looking glamorous and looking like a vamp. The infamous Kamoulika look from Indian television could have looked glamorous had it not been so harsh.

How do you customise your signature look?

I start with a haircut! I come fully prepared for everything. I carry a suitcase full of 200 accessories including coloured and layered extensions. As an artist you have to be very versatile and innovative when it comes to customising the bride’s look. I also prepare in advance, experiment with the look beforehand.

What is your inspiration?

It’s the old world Bollywood, the likes of Zeenat Aman, and international styling. Earlier the source was magazines, now we have social media like Pinterest.

What’s the one unique thing that you like to do for your brides?

I aim at creating a flawless dewy look for my bride. She meets so many people at close quarters and her make-up is a topic of discussion throughout the wedding. So I give her a look that will draw compliments.

What aspects do you take into consideration during consultation?

First and foremost, I see the bride’s skin. Then the eyebrow shape, the haircut, colour etc. Each bride has a Cinderella moment planned in her mind, so it’s important to understand what she wants. Then I give her my expert advice. It’s not right to impose your opinion on her without understanding her requirements.

A bride’s natural radiance must shine through!

Having added her magical touch to brides, Sharon has scaled newer heights in her artistry as she designed and executed the on-screen looks of actors Elli Evram, Arshi Khan and Mrunal Thakur, to name a few. She is also the make-up partner for the glamorous Kalaakar Awards. Creating beautiful brides and making their weddings a memorable day for them is Sharon’s motivating factor. She is also a passionate dog lover and rescuer. She is known and recommended in the bridal industry of the East for her unforgettable ‘Sharon Touch’ with make-up.

Tell us about your signature make-up look for brides.

My signature look for brides revolves around the idea that she must not lose true her identity under her make-up. A bride’s natural radiance must shine through! I have developed this style over the years, having worked extensively with innumerable brides. As she goes through the different phases of being a bride and puts on a happy face for every occasion, make-up plays an important role in keeping it real. My mother June Tomkyns has always been my inspiration when it comes to my work, especially bridal looks. My signature bridal style is an extension of who I am as a person - it’s a part of what I am as a person. For me, it’s all about keeping it authentic, keeping it real.

How does the bridal consultation process work for you?

My consultation works toward collaborating with my bride and determining how we can develop a look that caters to her individuality, while incorporating my signature style. For each pre-wedding occasion, a different look is discussed in terms of hairstyle, hair extensions, flowers and accessories. The bride’s skin is analysed, and thereafter treatments and bridal facials are recommended to prep the skin before the special day. I also ensure that a foundation test is conducted and the exact blend of shades is finalised. We also discuss pre-bridal packages and home care details wherein I give advice about suitable products to use for her hair, face and body.

What is the key element in bridal make-up?

Customisation is the key! I see to it that I fit the bride’s requirements into the framework of my specialties and encourage her to discuss what her preferences are so that we can combine the two when we work together.

Which are your favourite 2021 bridal make-up trends?

My favourite bridal trend for 2021 is the organic bride. It comprises a return to innocence, the natural glow with minimal make-up and emphasis only on the eyes, which is my make-up mantra. The combination and fusion of pastel and pop colours and the contrasting colours of blue/green, pink/ red and yellow/blue and the trending colours of blush pink, teal, yellow and champagne.

While following trends, artists should develop their own style and not simply imitate others. In make-up, it’s each his own!

What’s the one unique thing that you always like to do for your bridal clients?

The one unique thing that I love to do for my brides is to personally give them my signature bridal facial two days before their wedding day.

Bridal make-up is very intimate make-up.

Vipul Bhagat is an established name in the glam world for his bridal make-up and celebrity clientele. Having worked with top fashion designers from across India, Vipul has developed a keen fashion sense, which he incorporates in his bridal make-up style. For him, the bride’s look is a unique combination of his expertise and the bride’s choices. Be it a subtle no-make-up look or a glamorous avatar, Vipul ensures that his brides are looking their gorgeous best for each occasion and in every picture. For him, a bride’s satisfaction in her looks is most important. As a professional, he doesn’t take on too many brides in a day and never ditches his clients because he knows as a makeup artist he plays a pivotal role in making his bride’s day a memorable one.

What’s your signature bridal look?

“Bridal make-up is very intimate make-up. People are in close proximity to the bride and see her without any filters. Friends and family come up to her and hug her and they see her at close quarters. So there can’t be too much make-up on her face and yet it should enhance her beauty. Everyone at the wedding, especially people from the groom’s side, must recognise her.

I’ve noticed that the designers that I work with prefer the bridal makeup style done in Mumbai. I”m not segregating styles as per city but there is a certain way in which make-up artists in Mumbai work that’s preferred. Be it Sabyasachi, Manish Malhotra or Tarun Tahiliani, they always tell me - Make the bride beautiful!

Wedding is a once-in-a-lifetime affair and make-up can help make it the most memorable day for the bride. You spend so much on your dress, the location and your trousseau, you might as well spend on make-up too, and create a memorable look. Everybody should be able to recognise you and you should look pretty - that’s my approach towards bridal make-up.

It has to be easy on the eyes and the bride should be happy about it too.

Bridal make-up is a combination of your expertise and the bride’s choices. Beautiful contemporary is my signature bridal style.

How do you incorporate bridal hairdos into the overall look?

For hair, I consider the bride’s face structure and the fact that most girls like to touch their hair a lot. A look where one the one side the hair is pulled back and on the other side it falls down in waves works well on an oval shaped face. Other aspects to consider are the bride’s own preferences, her profile and personality, and her jewellery (especially the maang tika). Bridal look is a learning process for us, too.

How did you work toward making ‘the beautiful contemporary’ look your signature style?

In itially my journey was quite rough. Family didn’t support my decision of being a makeup artist because 30 years a go that was not a done thing for boys. I started with assisting other artists and my job included cleaning br ushes and carrying the equipment. So I learnt make-up ha nds on. Then I wanted to learn hair and fashion make-up and invested three years in learning. I did Femina Miss India shows for 7-8 years as well as standalone shows for desig ners. The learning experience was very good. And at that point in time, I got to know the brides. The designers started recom mending me, and I learned a lot while working with each one of them. All these designers are my gurus.

To day I get calls from brides that I had worked with 15 years ago. They remember the beautiful look I had created for them all those years ago and they hire me for their next ge neration’s wedding.

W ho is your inspiration for bridal make-up?

I get inspired when I meet the bride. I see her face, check her skin and hair quality. I find out the location of the wedding. With these details, I create the bridal look.

Which other aspects do you cover during your consultation?

I need to know her skincare routine, because skin is the canvas on which I will be performing on the wedding day. So I try to understand how she’s taking care of her skin to keep it flawless. I advise her to drink plenty of water, sleep early, avoid skin issues due to overexposure to screens, and take care of the undereye area as well as the overall skin.

How do you customise your signature look?

When I meet the bride I try to get into her mind process to understand what she wants. I can’t simply work with my own ideas. At times the bride says ‘I don’t want too much make-up, I want a minimal look.’ That’s a bigger challenge for us. The no-make-up look is quite difficult. And it has to sustain for at least 10 hours. So I customise my style according to the bride’s personality. If she doesn’t like kajal, I cannot force it on her. But I work around it and suggest variations like ‘let’s not put the kajal on the inner line but on the outer rim.’

Which are your favourite bridal trends for 2021?

Dewy soft make-up, glossy lips and frost coloured eyes with a lot of thick mascara. This year I’m using a lot of mascara so that the eyes open up. And a bit of glitter too. The overall look is glossy and not matte. With glossy make-up, your skin talks in your pictures. I like using glitter but minimally - it has to be just the right amount at the right place. My application techniques are different and I ensure that the glitter doesn’t fall on the face. Bronzer on the neck and shoulder areas is also a good way to make the skin glow.

What should artists avoid while doing bridal make-up?

Don’t put on too many layers and don’t go away from the bride’s natural skin tone. It’s not wise to create a chalky look and make the bride unrecognisable. For a model in a photo shoot, you have the option of camera setting and editing but for a bride it’s not an option. She’s out there among people and you have to make her look flawless. PBHJ