Evolution of Hair Colour

Hair colour trends and techniques have evolved progressively over the years, thanks to innovations in the use of ingredients. Harish Amdekar, Director, Chemstar, which is a supplier to major hair colour companies, discusses with Priyanka Parshurami the role of ingredients in creating novel hair products.

How has the cosmetic ingredients sector evolved over the last two decades?

The hair colour industry has progressed rapidly over the years. In the last 20-25 years, there has been tremendous growth and changes in the ingredients, techniques, application patterns, texture, marketing and others.

It started with powder dye or black henna powder back in 1990-2000. The target audience for hair colour was the age group above 50-55 years and only for grey coverage. But slowly due to the boom of the IT sector and other private jobs greying of hair became common, even in the age group of 35 and above.

And then in 2000-2005, L’Oréal entered the Indian hair colour market and dramatically changed the trends of hair colour. The hair colour industry saw a paradigm shift from powder dye to cream hair colour. L’Oréal also brought the glamour quotient in the hair colour market through TVC with Ashiwarya Rai, and changed the perception of the masses towards hair colour.

They also pioneered the culture of training the salon staff with the application and techniques for their hair colour as a part of their aggressive marketing strategies. So, yes there is tremendous evolution in the hair colour industry over two and a half decades.

What are the key ingredients that you manufacture for the hair colour industry?

We manufacture the para phenylene diamine (PPD), which is majorly the colourant in hair dyes. Through our dedicated R&D, we developed the PPD, which is exclusive for the hair colour industry and also has an ISO certification for it.

Are the ingredients you manufacture eco-friendly?

The ingredients which we manufacture are pure chemicals, and none of the cosmetics can be formulated in absence of chemicals. And these impurities can be detrimental for skin and hair. So I will put it this way, if the manufacturers remove all the impurities from the chemical ingredients then it becomes friendly for the skin and hair.

Is it a fact or a myth that the ingredients in hair colour damage the hair texture?

There are certain ingredients that cause reactions that can damage the hair and skin, so the brands and manufacturers avoid using them. Also, if the customers or salons use the products, which are not high quality then there are chances of hair getting damaged. So, by using correct ingredients and products, one can avoid the hair damage during colouration.

Name your key clients from the professional beauty products industry?

We are the star ingredients supplier for L’Oréal Professionnel, Godrej Professional, Streax Professional, Cavinkare, Marico, Coty, Revlon and Hoyo, a Japanese company.

What are your plans for innovation and new ingredients?

Fashion colours have been trending in Europe for a long time, but now they are here in the Indian market, too. Hence, we are working on developing and manufacturing the ingredients for formulating fashion colours in India. PBHJ