10 mins
BRING ON the colours!
Keep ’em subtle or keep ’em bright, but keep ’em coming! Our make-up maestros are buzzing with ideas as they discuss with Kanishka Ramchandani how to play with hues and keep make-up artistry on the track with trends.
Stay calm and put on your make-up
Lipsticks are more fun than boys! What say?
What do Victoria Beckham, Kylie Jenner, Rihanna, Katrina Kaif, Lara Dutta and Sunny Leone have in common? That’s a tough one, isn’t it? Not quite, if you look closely at how these celebrities have progressed with their careers, they all have a make-up line to their names. Gone are the days when actors and singers had to retire from stardom after a certain age. Today’s stars are turning into entrepreneurs and using their time in the limelight to establish brands market them across the globe. Following the footsteps of these ladies, we have had heartthrobs like Selena Gomez, Jennifer Lopez, Scarlett Johansson and Hailey Bieber joining the fray with their own make-up brands.
The world of make-up is an ever-changing landscape, and this change happens every single day. You see new techniques and trends going viral on social media. Even bloopers and bizarre hacks catch eyeballs! That’s how powerful make-up is turning out to be. Before I get down to sharing what our experts have in store for you, let’s check out the top global trends in make-up - fresh off the ramp and reels!
AN EYE FOR AN EYE
Aren’t we the queens of paradoxes? After no-make-up make-up look, it’s time for the no-eyeliner liner look. Yes, you can create snazzy eye make-up without an eyeliner. The invisible or transparent eyeliner trend that’s doing the rounds uses a lighter shade of concealer to give the outer corners of your eyes a lift. Rest of the job is done by the eye shadow and you are good to go.
BROWNIE POINTS
We know it’s summer. We know you want colour. But isn’t brown a colour, too? Go all dewy and dusky with your nude browns for this season. It is oh-so-Latina! As far as lips go, ditch the mattes and bring out the glossies.
Rich moisturised lips are the ‘it’ thing for summer. Don’t forget to add lip oils to your care regime. We can hear you scream ‘colour,’ so get on to the next trend!
DREAM IN TECHNICOLOUR
All that burst of colour you have been dreaming on is meant for your eyes. Yes! Your eyes are your canvas. Paint them up in pastels and neons as you rock your margaritas. The runways were ablaze with slime green and fuchsia. And you can liven up your look with these hues too. Or if you prefer something more soothing, there’s the pastel palette. An ombre eye make-up with lilac and lavender could be the killer look of the season for you! Are you ready to try it yet?
S IS FOR SULTRY
You can’t possibly go through the summers without showing off your sultry side. It’s time to splurge on the highlighter. Stash away your mattes and revel in the glorious sheen of liquid foundations and highlighters. A hydrated glossy face is the best base to show off all the colours.
AS CHEEKY AS IT GETS
Guys, I can’t tell you how much I’m hearting this trend! The ’70s are a-knocking and we are giving ’em a grand welcome. Check out the blushes for the season. The warm tones of rose and terracotta that go all the way from your cheeks to the temples. It’s called blush draping… and rightfully so! Using this technique, you can use the blush of your choice to give your face an instant facelift. Try out this trend and tell me what you think!
Having looked at Instagram trends endlessly, I knew I had to get the full picture of the spring/summer make-up trends. That’s why I rushed to our make-up experts who not only excel at their art but also know how to make global trends work on Indian skin tone.
Excerpts from the interviews
you work a lot with brides. how are bridal make-up trends evolving?
The new generation of brides comes with a lot of exposure to latest trends through social media. They look at celebrities, new-age influencers and actors for inspiration and want nothing less for themselves. They are also open to experiments and not always are looking for the traditional make-up, which I feel is slowly becoming history.
Earlier, it was a done thing for a bride to wear a bun and don a red outfit with red lipstick. But today, they want exclusive looks for themselves with differently designed accessories open hair looks, nude palette, etc.
how do you suggest artists to use magenta as it’s the colour of the year?
For tunately, magenta is a very flexible colour and goes very well with the warm Indian skin tones. It can be used as a form of lipstick, for graphic eyeliners, in the eyeshadow, even some strands of hair colour highlights, in nail paints or nail art... there are endless ways you can incorporate magenta in your look.
what are the trends for eyes and lips?
The latest trends for eyes are strong defined brows, adorning the eyes with Swarovski, glitter, bright tone eye shadow or liners, graphic design in eyeshadow or liners, etc.
It ’s fun to experiment with coloured lashes. For the lips, I can say transparent gloss is back with a bang.
Vipul Bhagat Ow ner, Vipul Bhagat Make-up academy
The bend is more towards neutral peach or bright pink tones.
Whatever it is keep one element of the face as the focal point to maintain balance.
Are we going to see any different contouring techniques this year?
I feel gradually the trend of contoured structured faces is declining and natural fresh make-up is coming up so contouring will eventually become softer.
If you closely notice, last year’s celebrity brides chose to look very fresh and natural with minimal make-up as against what has been trending on social media.
what’s your take on eyebrow and eye lash trends?
Eyelashes and eyebrows are becoming a very prominent feature of make-up. I feel the eyebrows should look defined and groomed to give a perfect framing. Shorter, arched and laminated brows are looking up as latest trends. For eyelashes there is a much wider choice and girls can experiment with various thicknesses and lengths, also something which will be seen more this year probably would be the new trend of coloured or highlighted lashes.
which trends are passé?
Heavy bases, strong highlighters and heavy edgy contours are totally passe as I personally feel it makes the person looks very harsh and much older. The frostiness of the highlighter brings out the flaws of the skin showing the fine lines and open pores more prominently than hiding it.
you are a full-time make -up educator who trains artists/aspiring artists in bridal and other forms of makeup artistry work. how are bridal make -up trends evolving?
Make-up industry is one of the most rapidly changing industries in the world, and when it comes to bridal make-up trends, rather than yearly, it changes every season. One trend that I have loved this year is using more matte eyeshadows to frame the eyes rather than opting for glitters and a foiled look, which is a go -to in Indian bridal routine. I love the fact that brides love elegant eye routines using matte finish as it makes their eyes look very classy and sophisticated. Another wonderful trend that I have loved this season is the preference of skin work over paint work. I love that people are opting to show their natural skin tone and not to camouflage it completely. Skin is very much ‘IN’ this year! Using accents such as hints of stones and pearls ’ for bridal routines have become the new norm, adding a much-needed fun element.
how do you suggest artists to use magenta as it’s the colour of the year?
There are several ways in which an artist can incorporate Viva Magenta to their make-up. They can use it: -Pop of colour in the inner corner -Graphic winged liner -Soft eyes with a beautiful sharp magenta lip -Editorial look using magenta as a monochromatic routine for eyes, lips and blush. -Magenta ombre lips -Magenta smoked out lower lash line -Magenta to light pink ombre blush using draping technique
what are the trends for eyes and lips?
For lips, brown nude tones are back in trend. Matte lips are out and gloss or vinyl finishes are in. Multi-chromes on lips are in and on eyes are out, especially for editorial work. Using rhinestones/pearls are in for eye make-up. Gone are the days when brides preferred to line their eyes with black kohl. Today, they prefer other neutral tones such as brown and grey kohls, which can make their eyes look softer yet open. Reverse ombre lips are also in, especially brides prefer that for their haldi day topped with a nude lip oil.
LEKSHMI MENON (FRSA) Make-up educator, CeO, Face palette international Makeup academy and Dela Beauty products and services
Are we going to see any different contouring techniques this year?
I would say try underpainting technique to get that flawless complexion work rather than always opting for traditional contouring technique. However, one need to master the basics of human anatomy, light and shadow theory to get this right but it looks gorgeous on camera and can make someone look really sculpted without sharp lines.
what’s your take on eyebrow and eye lash trends?
I am glad to see a big adieu to over fluttery and very big voluminous lashes. Opting individuals over strip lashes are in. Another trend I love is using half cut lashes only in the outer corner to create just a natural lovely lash lift. As for brows, fluffy brows are still in and clients often love to see their brows look natural and filled but fuller. This can make their face look youthful.
which trends are passé?
Several trends I must say. Using orange corrector where it is not needed, lighter concealer under eyes, baking technique, pastel white on the brow bone and contouring on faces that is not needed. These trends are passé by artists who choose to do global make-up artistry: however, it is still showcased through social media by several others.
As a make-up artist, one of the most important talents is analytical skill. Analyse skin, tex ture, tones and finishes and work accordingly rather than working blindly. Another important skill to have is how to ‘SPEAK’ colour theory. It should be your second language.
eyes aRe gOing tO Be all shiny anD lips all glOssy. you work a lot with brides. how are bridal make-up trends evolving? Brides these days prefer very minimal make-up, with gorgeous dewy and luminous skin.
Skin preparation products like your serums and moisturisers are essential now, you cannot do such beautiful skin work without a strong skincare prep before make-up. Glowing dewy skin is the new bridal trend, along with some beautiful monochromatic looks in earthy and peachy tones.
It’s all about glowing skin and no more cakey foundations.
what are the trends for eyes and lips?
Eyes are going to be all shiny and lips all glossy. It’s all about having minimal on skin and statement eyes or lips in 2023.
how do you suggest artists use magenta as it’s the colour of the year?
Pantone has introduced Viva Magenta as the colour for 2023. It is bold, bright and fearless.
So, go bold with your lips or let your eyes do the magic.
Also, you can go monochromatic with the same family of magenta to create gradation. Be experimental with metallics and shimmers.
NEHA CHANDE Make-up educator and education Director, indian school of Beauty
Just play around with your creativity and you’re all set for the season.
Are we going to see any different contouring techniques this year?
Basics of make-up will remain constant. Face structures and shapes are still very human, so yes, we will have different trends going viral on social media as usual, but let’s stick to our technical knowledge and give our clients a real makeover and not a reel makeover.
what’s your take on eyebrow and eye lash trends?
Bushy and natural eyebrows are in trend - it’s kept groomed but naturally. Just use an eyebrow wax to set them in place with a spoolie and your good to go. Eyelash extensions are doing pretty well, it’s a good investment for people whose job demands groomed eyelashes all the time. For rest false lashes are still a best option.
which trends are passé?
Definitely the cakey foundations and heavy layers of full coverage foundation are a complete no-no.
This article appears in the Feb-Mar 23 Issue of Professional Beauty/ Hairdressers Journal India
If you would like to view other issues of Professional Beauty/ Hairdressers Journal India, you can see the full archive
here.