HAUTE UPDOS

A timeless symbol of sophistication and style, an updo has the power to elevate a simple look into a glamorous one. A staple for bridal hair, an everyday hair hack and a quick style change for an after-hours do, an upstyle is all this and more. Kanishka Ramchandani traverses the creative landscape with ace stylists to unravel the magic of upstyles.

As much as it is endearing to see a wellsculpted long hair updo, it is quite a challenge for the hairdresser. It takes months of practice and a deep understanding of how hair behaves as well as how to take care of it that finally manifests as a beautifully crafted updo. While hair educators conduct specialised workshops on upstyling, ultimately it is the hairdressers innate understanding of the hair type, length, colour placement and face shape that results in an inspirational hair design. Moreover, trends in upstyling are constantly changing. By the time you have mastered the glossy finish, perfect updos, the undone look is high on the charts, or you are still crimping the hair to get texture while the rest of the world has moved onto marcel waves. Since updos range from ponytails to French twists and from top knots to messy or braided chignons, there is a lot of explore in this styling category. In this feature, we will get experts to talk about their favourite upstyles as they dish out handy tips and useful tricks about techniques et al.

TREND WATCH

Here are the top eight upstyles that are trending this season.

1. Messy Updo: You can’t go wrong with this look. Balancing the casual and the chic, this style embraces a relaxed, undone appearance, with loose tendrils framing the face. Ergo, you can make it work on any face shape. Be it a pre-wedding style or a brunch look, you can play it up or down for a laid-back yet stylish vibe.

2. Chignon: A chignon rests elegantly at the nape of the neck, sometimes sporting braids, sometimes an accessory. It is an upstyle that is definitely formal and works well for occasions that require a sophisticated look.

3. French Twist: The French twist is back and how! Having disappeared from the fashion scene for the last couple of years, the French twist is making a ‘cool’ comeback. Instead of the tightly pulled back, bare-face look it creates, hair artists are experimenting with making it more natural and softer. Using hair texture to create drama, the French twist has every fashionista wound up in its elegance.

4. Braided Updo: A couple of seasons ago, a hair expert told me braids are here to stay forever. I didn’t believe them! Today, I’m happy to say I am wrong. A braid is indeed an evergreen hairstyle. Add it to an updo and you have a look right out of a hairdresser’s portfolio. With a braid, you can take the upstyle anywhere on the spectrum – from bohemian to classy.

5. Top Knot: Top knot is to hair what the no make-up look is to make-up. It looks effortless and casual and yet a true hair artist knows the way to create a perfect top knot is with a little bit of backcombing, using tongs the right way and finishing off with a setting spray. This style is great for a casual day out, a workout session, or any situation where you want your hair off your face.

6. Half-Up Half-Down: This hybrid style is ageless. What I mean is, it suits women across all ages. A collegegoing girl, a corporate executive, a middle-aged entrepreneur or a retired professional – anyone can pull off this versatile look with elan. With top section of the hair secured while the bottom half is left down, this upstyle is the best way to show off your hair colour.

7. Sleek Ponytail: Ponytails are our go-to style option, aren’t they? There is so much you can do with the humble ponytail. Play it up with accessories or braids or sleek it up with a slick back approach. What’s your favourite ponytail look?

8. Classic Bun: Finally, the classic bun! The phrase conjures up images of Audrey Hepburn in her iconic look in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. there’s no harm is replicating the look as it’s a romantic one that women heart even to this day. But as a hairstylist who loves challenges, there’s plenty that you can do to elevate the classic bun and make it more contemporary.

Bony Sasidharan, Creative Head, Schwarzkopf Professional says:

“Clean sleek wraps, buns or chignons are trending this season.”

Sidney Ho, Owner, Mirror and Combs Salon, Kolkata says:

“Long face framing layers and curtain bangs are in. So are high ponytails and messy buns!”

Shadab Shaikh a.k.a Bugz, Creative Head, Affinity Salons says:

“Creating gorgeous waves with tongs on long hair helps create movement and texture and also add volume.”

COLOUR STRATEGY

An updo is a work of art. It requires designing, product knowledge, mastery of hair techniques and more importantly an in-depth understanding of how colour works.

Colour, when rightly placed, can dramatically uplift the overall impact of an updo. Colours are meant to complement the client’s skin tone, eye colour, and sometimes even their outfit. The use of a colour palette that enhances their facial features combined with the right technique and placement go a long way in creating a harmonious balance.

Colour positioning can add depth, dimension and texture to the updo, making it more captivating and dynamic. Whether using highlights, lowlights or vibrant accents, skillful colour placement can transform a simple updo into a stunning and personalised masterpiece.

Ideal colour placement starts with clean sectioning, deciding stitching size and depth and remaining consistent throughout. You will achieve more contrast in colour if you keep your foils further apart. While triangle sectioning is more popular in balayage technique, it can also be used in foil application. You can choose between vertical, horizontal and diagonal placements depending on what kind of visual effects that you want to create. Remember, the colouration technique and placement can drastically enhance the updos you create.

Bony Sasidharan says:

“The colour palette for this season is more towards browns with a hint of warmth. Glossy expensive-looking brown hair is in vogue. Hair colour techniques can vary from uniform colour that appears more natural to an extreme colour contrast, which includes colour placement, too.”

Sidney Ho says:

“My most loved technique is the freehand highlight technique as it has more control and you can play around with placement of colour.”

Bugz says:

“Creating gorgeous waves with tongs on long hair helps create movement and texture and also add volume.”

PLAY WITH TEXTURE

Texture is the soul of any upstyle. Just like colour palette and placement, it is the texture of the hair that determines how interesting an updo you can make. Around five years ago, all Indian bridal updos were flaunting crimped hair. While it added volume and texture, crimping took away the impact of colour. Today, many new techniques have evolved to get the desired look. So, put away your crimper and save yourself some time as you design the new-age upstyle for your modern Indian client.

Braids play a crucial role in upstyling as they help add intricate detail and texture to elevate the overall look. Incorporating braids into an updo can provide a sense of sophistication and elegance, while also offering versatility in design. Whether as a focal point or as an accent, braids create visual interest, framing the face and enhancing the hairstyle’s depth and complexity. Braids can actually help you add mood to your hair design. Your creativity can between romantic and edgy, thanks to braids. Since there are different ways to braid the hair, you have limitless possibilities to experiment with while creating an updo. What’s more, braids and colour make for a killer combination.

Bony Sasidharan says:

“Braids are and always have been an important part of any styling sessions. Braids make any hairstyle appear a bit more dramatic. Braids are so versatile that you can add this to any hairstyle, whether it’s clean or needs more texture.”

Sidney Ho says:

“Braids are now becoming the trend all over globe, with inspiration from Afro styling. My favourite is pin braiding!”

Bugz says:

“Braids look stylish and trendy. The most effective way to do braids is by using a volume range product. After you have created the braids wait for some time, let is set and then open it up to create waves and movement. Braids are universally loved by all and are always trending. We have seen them during our school days, we see them at events and even as part of casual wear, including cornrows that look stylish yet elegant, and even lock in moisture in the hair.”

CARING FOR YOUR TRESSES

Healthy long hair is the foundation of a stunning updo. No matter how good your technique and how perfect your products and tools are, you will not be able to create the desired look if your client has unhealthy tresses. So, while you are putting in efforts at designing a great look for her, make sure that she is taking good care of her hair by taking in-salon treatments and using homecare products.

Some of the in-salon treatments that you can suggest are hydrating hair spa, scalp treatment, warm oil massage and detox treatment. You should also recommend the right homecare products to her based on her hair and scalp condition. Apart from the treatments, regular trimming and vitamin supplements will also help in boosting her hair health.

However, if the client has naturally thin or fine hair, our experts suggest the use of hair extensions. Natural hair extensions are a good option as they blend in quite easily and can be coloured for enhanced effect.

Bony Sasidharan says:

“Long hair looks beautiful if it is maintained well and salon care plays a vital role in it. Clients must be reminded about their trims. Suggest the right shampoo and conditioner that complements their hair and scalp needs. In some case, you many have to recommend different shampoos for hair and scalp. The hairdresser must also train them on how to use the product correctly. Since the hair goes through a lot of mechanical and environmental stress, it’s important to make a routine for the client’s haircare appointments.”

Sidney Ho says:

“Consult your stylist for correct haircare products and do cleansing and conditioning regularly. Use SPF hair serum and take regular hair spa or treatment. A trim every three to four months is a must!”

Bugz says:

“Shampoo and conditioner play a very important role, followed by the right styling products to keep the volume intact. But the most important factor is the hair cut.”

PBHJ