THE RISE OF TRICHOLOGY

We discover the science behind a healthy scalp and the role a Trichologist can play in a clients’ hair loss journey

According to the World Trichology Society, Trichology (from the Greek word Trikhos, meaning singular hair) first became a specialised area of study in the UK in the late 19th Century. Described by Neil Harvey, MIT Chair at The Institute of Trichologists, as a fascinating area of health care, he tells us, “Trichology is a specialised branch of dermatology that helps with what can truly be a distressing condition, which can have an impact on someone both emotionally and physically. Trichology has never been more needed.” A recent article in Dazed confirmed that Google searches for ‘hair loss’ and ‘hair growth’ had reached (and were maintaining) their highest rates during COVID-19, as well as searches for ‘how to grow hair’ doubling in 2020 according to Lisa Payne, Head of Beauty at trend intelligence company Stylus.

TRENDING TRICHOLOGY

Thinning hair, hair loss and scalp conditions can be a common cause for concern for a lot of clients but knowing exactly what to recommend can be tricky. “It's important to note that hairdressers are not medical professionals, but they often have first-hand observations and experiences with clients' hair and scalp conditions. By referring clients to Trichologists, hairdressers can ensure their clients receive the specialised care and expertise needed for accurate diagnosis and effective treatment,” advises Mandy Graham, Trichologist, Paul Mitchell.

So what is Trichology? “Trichology is the scientific study of the skin on your scalp and the hair that grows from it,” explains Susie Hammond, Consultant Trichologist at Philip Kingsley. “A Trichologist is an expert in the science of hair and scalp health and treats any issues to do with those areas.” Trained Trichologists routinely treat conditions from hair loss to more complex scarring Alopecias such as Frontal Fibrosing Alopecia. Just as you would see a Dermatologist for a skin issue on your face or body, Susie advises that clients should always see a Trichologist for issues concerning the hair on their head and scalp. “Trichologists are trained to provide advice on haircare practices and recommend appropriate treatments or therapies to promote a healthier hair and scalp.”

MOVING IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION

Although hairdressers can share their knowledge to help clients with hair loss and scalp issues it is also important to know when to direct them to a professional who can help. It is not uncommon for clients to feel more confident speaking to their hairdresser about hair or scalp issues than anyone else. However, as Trichologist Stephen Goldsworthy, owner of Goldsworthys for L’Oréal Professionnel explains, if you notice a scalp issue you should never be afraid to raise this with your client. “Most issues with hair loss become noticeable after at least three months of whatever is causing the issue has occurred.Asking simple questions such as “When did you first notice this?” and “What changed three months prior to this?” will help you decipher whether referral to a Trichologist is recommended.” Stephen goes on to say that most GPs are not trained in hair loss, and may refer the patient to a Dermatologist instead.“But a Trichologist deals purely in the scalp and hair and will have a full understanding of what is happening. They can help clients get the necessary testing done and put their mind at rest by providing all the information needed for a solution.”

Neil explains that the hair is often referred to as a ‘barometer of health’. He explains:“A Trichologist may have an important impact on a person’s overall health by picking up on symptoms and helping them receive swift treatment.” It is therefore important that a hairdresser directs clients to a Trichologist when specialised expertise and diagnostic tools are required. Mandy outlines the following instances where a hairdresser should refer clients to a Trichologist:

1. Persistent or severe hair loss

2. Scalp conditions and disorders

3. Unexplained changes in hair texture or quality

4.Allergic reactions or sensitivity

 5. Suspected scalp or hair disorders Mark Blake, (MIT WTS IAT),Trichologist and Nioxin Ambassador highlights that the sooner a client is referred, the better the prognosis.“Trichologists usually want specific blood tests to help them with their diagnosis,” he says.“The client will thank the stylist and the Trichologist will work with the stylist to get the client the hair they deserve."

KNOWLEDGE IS POWER

Hair loss affects around eight million women in the UK (according to the NHS) and the American Hair Loss Association reports that male pattern baldness currently affects approximately 85% of all men by the age of 50. “Trichology is therefore an important part of a stylist’s education. We all need to know what’s at the root of any hair loss problem, so we can best support our clients,” says Rob Wood, owner of Novo Cabelo.

Demand for Trichology services is at an all-time high. “As a result we need more qualified trichologists to service clients’ needs,” says Mark who is seeing many of the UK’s top hairdressers entering the field. Enhancing your existing skills can allow hairdressers to not only offer better guidance and hair care routines but also to attract a broader client base. “Upskilling also contributes to hairdresser's professional growth and credibility,” says Mandy who offers the following benefits of Trichology training: specialised knowledge, effective diagnosis, treatment competence, client care and support, professional credibility, and career opportunities.

It is not unusual for hairdressers to develop an interest in Trichology, not only for their own career development but also, in order to support their clients effectively. “Clients will ask for advice and guidance and often it is the hairdresser who is the first to spot that a client has an issue,” says Susie. There is always more than meets the eye when it comes to the science behind clients’ hair, and the possibility for more knowledge is always growing.