THE EVOLVING BEAUTY OF Indian Brides

Her face is glowing with love; her eyes sparkling in anticipation of her new life. She is carrying forth the legacy of her family and her culture with her attire and jewellery. She is beautiful in her own right, and she needs your help to accentuate her confidence. She wants to look like herself, be comfortable in her own skin and mark one of the most important days of her life with unalloyed happiness. Meet the new-age Indian bride!

The modern Indian woman revels in her individuality. That’s exactly what she wants the whole world to see during her wedding functions. Be it the stylish pre-wedding shoot or the traditional mehndi ceremony, she wants her hair, make-up, clothes and jewellery to be extensions of her personality. It’s not just her lehenga or hairdo that will be in the limelight but the overall look that’s thoughtfully designed… just of her.

In our bridal special edition, we explore all the major aspects of preparing the bride-tobe for her wedding. Kanishka Ramchandani speaks to top bridal experts and creates a holistic and practical approach to bridal artistry, which covers skincare, hairstyling, make-up, bridal management, clothes and jewellery. A happy bride is the best testimonial a beauty professional can ask for!

WHAT DOES THE MODERN INDIAN BRIDE NOT WANT?

Odd as that question might sound, the answer is quite intriguing. She doesn’t want to be a carbon copy of a celebrity bride. She doesn’t want to make the obvious choices. She doesn’t want to be told what is trending.

The modern Indian bride wants to be her true self!

With hair and make-up artistry, beauty professionals can help her achieve her dream. She will look picture perfect, not just for Instagram or the wedding album, but for herself. She is daring, bold and ready to experiment. It is, therefore, important for you, as her hairstylist or make-up artist, to have a detailed consultation with her. After a thorough understanding of her lifestyle, her career, her family and the wedding details, such as theme, venue and customs, you can come up with the ideal lookbook for her. Indian weddings are celebrated over a period of days with various functions that have deep cultural or religious meanings. Create a different look for your bridal client for each function, keeping in mind the values behind each of them. Keep the focus on creating a holistic look for her. Let’s start with looking at how hair can be the crowning glory in a bridal fairytale.

Style: Detailed updos and fresh flowers are in vogue as are loose soft romantic waves. Fresh and artificial flowers can be combined with gold or silver jewellery to adorn asymmetric styles with soft swirls.

Oversized matha patti and nose rings are also making statements.

Colour: Burgundy, wine, classic black, caramel highlights and natural dark brown add shine to all hairdos. It’s crucial for the bride to consult with a professional hairstylist and colourist to choose the most suitable shade based on her complexion, outfit and desired look. A trial session will definitely help!

Care: Hairdressers should always try to use minimum heat while working with brides. Use good branded tools. In Paris, I saw heat tools that do not heat up the hair while styling it perfectly. Crimping is ‘out.’ Hair this season is all about clean lines and minimalism. Brides might be okay with too much heat styling for the wedding but you need to ensure that their hair is not in a bad shape later on. Use mousse-based heat protection as with sprays a few strands might get left out. Improve your knowledge about hairsprays – know what product to use for mild hold for regular styling and strong hold for bold hairdos.

Must-have products: Volume dust! I always use it to create volume at the scalp for my bride. When you create curls or soft waves, they should not be flat at the top. Volume dust really helps and you will see the results are amazing.

Styling: Soft sophistication is all the rage this season. Low chignon, sleek bun, effortless curls, hair side swept with soft curls and hair adorned with flowers are trending. However, bridal styling has limitations based on the natural growth pattern and quality of hair.

Colour: Neutral undertones work best with bright and bold colours. Cool undertones bring out green, purple, blue, brown and grey, while warm undertones work best with bright or light colours. However, a bride must shy away from using cream/ beige as they suggest tired and dull skin. Go with shades of orange rust, earthy tones or soft gold/copper/dusty rose. Neons are a big NO! For an evening look, jewel tones of blue/purple/olive work superbly.

Bridal hair colour should be subtle. Highlights screaming of ash should be avoided as they interfere with the Indian bridal outfit /jewellery clashing with the traditional look.

Care: Go for sulphate-free shampoos. Look for fatty alcohol present in conditioners, if your hair need moisture. They are great for all types of hair but if you have a sensitive scalp, they may not agree with you. Ingredients such as cetyl, stearyl or cetearyl alcohol are the ones to look out for.

For coarse and curly hair, use detanglers with cetrimonium chloride and methosulfate in conditioner. For over processed, damaged and regularly heatstyled hair, opt for protein-based conditioners such as wheat and soy amino acids.

Stay away from silicones/ siiloxanes, if you have fine hair as they feel heavy as they coat the cuticles and weigh your hair down, interfering with your chosen style. Sodium chloride is an ingredient to stay away from in your shampoo if you have coarse hair as it roughs up your cuticle. It is best for fine, flat hair as it makes it look fuller.

Go for regular spas with steam and a mask. Try not to shampoo and condition your hair on your D-day.

Must-have styling products: Detangling spray, mousse, shine spray, strong hold spray, leave-in conditioner, styling dusting powder, compatible shampoo and conditioner and thermal protector.

Make-up is a deal maker for brides. As a bridal MUA, it is your job to get a thorough understanding of what your client wants and do it complete justice. Make-up is much more complex than hair as you need to consider the environment in which the bride is going to be. Do the pheras involve sitting in front of the customary fire for hours? What is the venue like? What is the location like, if it’s a destination wedding? Many such nuances ultimately affect the overall look that you are trying to create.

It is equally important that you are using the high quality and longlasting products. You can’t possibly expect your bride to sport two different lip colours for the same function, can you? Plus, you need to brush up on your knowledge about undertones and colour correction. With HD photography and instant Instagram uploads, your bride absolutely cannot have a patchy base or bleeding lipstick. Let’s look at what our experts have to say about bridal make-up dos and don’ts.

Trends: This season ‘beauty lies in simplicity. The modern brides are looking at minimal make-up with a dewy, glowing base and a soft colour palette. Most brides want to do away with heavy smokey eyes with lashes and too much highlighter. I feel that the celebrity brides such as Kiara Advani, Alia Bhatt and Katrina Kaif have influenced the minimal bridal make-up trend.

Colours: Indian brides love to red, maroon or orange outfits. For them, the make-up palette can be chosen from warm tones like beige, terracotta, bronze and light gold. For the ones who choose pastel outfits and day weddings can go for a peach and pink palette to give a perfectly flushed look. A little silver or white gold can add a joyful sparkle.

Techniques: Techniques like airbrushing give a flawless base and dewy undertone, which can be a game changer. It also helps the make-up to last longer.

Faux pas: Make-up artists should avoid using skin products that are gel based, such as serums, before starting make-up as some skin types don’t absorb these products well and can end up flaking the make-up.

Too much of matte make-up can also cause the skin to crack. Avoid using too much highlighter and loose sparkly glitter for the bride.

Must-have products: A good moisturiser – MAC studio moisture cream Gold-infused serum – Deigo Dalla Palma Tinted blush – Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge for lips and cheeks in the shade pale pink Gel liner – MAC Pro Longwear Fluidline Eye Liner Gel Airbrush – Temptu

Trends: Everything is going more towards pastels. There are a lot of mauves, lilacs and purples. It’s all about freshness and softness. There are no harsh or sharp lines. The skin is either glass skin or dolphin skin, which is both illuminated and matte in the right places. There’s a satin velvet finish on the skin. The overall basic look has to have the appeal of freshness, dewy-ness and illumination.

Colours: The best colour palette for Indian brides is one with warmer tones. If you want to use cool colours, don’t go for the pale ones, instead opt for bright cool hues. For example, instead of using like a soft French rose pink, try a pop pink or a magenta.

Techniques: Airbrush make-up! Because it represents your own skin, its lightweight and does not look cakey. But your client needs to have good that’s well maintained. You now get airbrush foundations with alcohol base and silicon base. The alcohol-based ones are amazing to cover up pigmentation and tattoos. On top of it, you can spray on the HD silicon base with airbrush.

Pro-tip: Whenever you deal with a bridal client, you must follow style stepping. It means understanding the style that your customer is fond of. Your bride could be a fashion model or an artist or a doctor or engineer. You will see variations in the kind of make-up these people are comfortable wearing. The doctor will probably want something subtle and natural. The artist will want something that will pop, and the model will want something high definition. You need to get a balance while achieving these effects while creating the final look.

Must-have products: An amazing primer – asilicon-based gel and an illuminating one. One could be for the day and the other for the night. You definitely need an amazing colour corrector for Indian skin. Bobbi Brown has shades of peach as colour correctors while Kryolan makes 303 in a super palette. I always rely on a fixing spray, a beauty blender and a sponge wedge. I also always carry a kohl and a black gel liner, so I can easily intensify or lessen the smokiness, degree wise, if it’s a night bride or a bride sporting a western look. One more thing that you cannot live without are cheek and lip tints. I think they are the rage and they look really natural as they stain the lip and the cheek, making them look natural. I love having these products in my kit.

Let’s talk bridal skincare with RICHA AGARWAL, Founder and Director, Cleopatra Salon; International Beauty and Wellness Expert; Master Assessor BWSSC (NSDC); and Chief Mentor Beauty India Skills

“In-salon natural skincare treatments have become essential for brides these days. With the increasing popularity of organic and chemical-free products, brides are looking to enhance their natural beauty using these treatments. Salons offer a range of natural skincare treatments that are perfect for brides-to-be. We, at Cleopatra, are very particular on opting for natural and organic skincare.

A must-have treatment is a facial using organic ingredients. These facials are designed to nourish and rejuvenate the skin, leaving it glowing and radiant. Ingredients like honey, avocado and coconut oil are commonly used in these facials, known for their hydrating and moisturising properties.

Another popular treatment is a body scrub using natural exfoliants like sea salt or sugar.

Trending ingredients

• Trending in-salon skincare ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, chamomile and flower extracts, oats, almond, saffron, tulsi and cold-pressed oils, are highly sought-after by brides due to their various benefits.

• Vitamin C is another trending ingredient for brides, as it brightens the complexion and reduces the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation.

• Oats are natural antioxidants that provide gentle exfoliation and help to remove dead skin cells, revealing a fresh and glowing complexion.

• Cold-pressed oils have gained popularity in salons for brides due to their purity and potency. These oils are extracted using a method that preserves the nutrients and benefits of the ingredients. They provide intense hydration and nourishment to the skin, leaving it supple and smooth.

Mistakes to avoid

“Skin therapists or salon should be cautious and avoid certain mistakes while dealing with bridal clients who are seeking peels. Bridal skin is typically young and sensitive, requiring extra care and attention. Firstly, it is crucial for therapists to use the right products for skincare. Using harsh or unsuitable products can lead to adverse reactions and damage the bride’s skin, which is the last thing she wants before her wedding day.”

Must-have products

• Abridal skincare routine is essential to ensure the bride’s skin looks radiant and flawless on her special day.

• Sun protection is a crucial step in any skincare routine, especially for brides who will be spending time outdoors while shopping for wedding preparations. A broad-spectrum sunscreen with a high SPF should be applied generously to the face and exposed areas of the body.

• In the evening, a thorough cleansing routine is necessary to remove impurities, make-up and excess oil accumulated throughout the day.

• Ahydrating moisturiser is vital to keep the skin nourished and hydrated. It will provide essential moisture to the skin, preventing dryness and flakiness.

• To target any existing skin concerns, such as acne or hyperpigmentation, incorporating a treatment product into the routine is beneficial. This could be a spot treatment for blemishes or a serum containing ingredients like vitamin C or retinol to even out the skin tone and promote a smoother texture.

• The delicate skin around the eyes requires special care to reduce puffiness, dark circles and fine lines. Look for an eye cream that addresses these concerns and contains ingredients like caffeine or hyaluronic acid to refresh and hydrate the under-eye area.

• Dry and chapped lips can be a concern. Applying a nourishing lip balm will keep the lips soft and smooth, and ready for the big day.

*Images are for representational purpose only.

What kind of offers or packages should be designed for the bridal season?

While designing the bridal packages, every minute requirement has to be kept in mind as the brides-to-be are very particular about their special day. The package should not only include make-up but skin, hair and nails, too. Use the days leading up to the wedding for skin and hair treatments. These combined packages for overall pampering are beneficial, both for the brides and the salons.

How to keep bridal clients satisfied?

The best way to satisfy bridal clients is to get ‘involved’ with the brides in a way that they trust you even more. Amidst all the worries of the bridal arrangements, the bride needs to be given that confidence that make-up is the least of her worries. Plan the whole look with her in advance so that there is smooth execution on the D-day.

What mistakes should be avoided?

Although Indian weddings are known to have enormous budgets for the arrangements, fleecing should be avoided. We should remember that the bridal make-up is a one-time service but the skin, hair and nails are recurring services and you definitely want the client to come back.

How can a salon establish itself as a bridal specialist?

Instagram, Instagram and Instagram! The best way to establish yourself as a bridal specialist, you need to showcase your skill on social platforms. In the world of online marketing, your creativity and speciality are of no use if you do not put it out in public.

Tips on inventory and space management

• Inventory management is very important specially when it comes to make-ups as the number of products required are way more than other services.

• In terms of space management, we should understand that it is the bride’s most special day – give her privacy!

• We also need to realise that our salon chair has a value, in terms of client rotation. You would definitely want the space to be utilised for more money yielding services like make-up rather than blow dries, etc. While doing this, keep in mind to not lose the client but to manage in such a way that they do not opt for other salons.

Fashion and Jewellery Bridal Couture

Ace couturier Manish Malhotra presented his Bridal Couture Show 2023-24 that highlighted the top trends in bridal fashion. The collection presented a fresh interpretation of peplums, slim skirts, jackets and draped saris, bridal lehengas, sparkling kurtas and shararas. Focus was on the most sought-after statement – head veils. Classic zardozi, aari, Kashmiri, threadwork and Taban techniques were seen across the creations. He also introduced novel silhouettes for daring brides like a black tuxedo kurta.

Bejewelled Brides

“Statement and avant-garde pieces have taken centrestage. Brides are now seeking jewellery that leaves a bold, distinctive and unforgettable mark on their special day.

Modular pieces provide brides with versatility that extends far beyond their wedding day. These jewellery items can be resized and personalised to suit various occasions, making them both multi-functional and pragmatic.

Brides are increasingly infusing vibrant gems such as sapphires, emeralds and rubies into their jewellery selections to introduce a burst of colour and imbue their ensemble with personal significance.

As an adornologist, my inspiration to create bridal collections in fine diamond jewellery stems from a deep conviction. I firmly believe that every bride deserves to radiate on her special day with a piece of jewellery that mirrors her individuality and is nothing short of extraordinary. Bridal jewellery, to me, is far more than a mere accessory; it serves as a profound symbol of love, commitment, and the promise of a lifetime filled with cherished moments.