Love the skin you’re in!

Hot chocolate, cashmere sweaters and holiday spirit are all that you need to keep you happy during the winter months. But with your skin, you need to put in more effort. Kanishka Ramchandani gives you a lowdown about skincare during winters with inputs from our beauty experts Annalouise Kenny, Owner, Skin Philosophy; and Santhoshi Srikar, Managing Director, Plush Lounge. professionalbeauty.in

Remember how our grandmothers used to make special nutrient-rich delicacies at the onset of winters? Our bodies need certain nutrients to help us through the cold months, and our skin is no different. Customising the skincare routine of your clients for the winters is a smart way to avoid aggravated problems in the future. While there is a plethora of products available in the market that promise to winter-proof your skin, what you really need is a thorough skin analysis and an in-depth understanding of key ingredients. As a skincare professional, you need to be armed with the right information that you can share with your clients and help them achieve glowing skin.

Understanding your skin better

To begin with, a detailed skin consultation will allow you to understand the skin type of your client and know how their skin reacts to cold dry weather conditions. Ask for a brief history to evaluate if their skin is acne-prone, mature or inflamed. Enquire about their existing health conditions and any medications they might be taking. Once you have the context, put their current skin condition into perspective. At every step of the way, make them understand each detail. For instance, make them aware why they cannot use any over-the - counter product during winters or increase the use of a moisturiser, if they have acneprone skin.

Once the skin evaluation is done, you need to understand the products that they are already using, the reason why they are using them and what are the key ingredients in these products. Sharing your knowledge about ingredients with your clients is crucial here as it will help you gain their confidence and give them the freedom to choose the brands they love. Recommending a skin serum with hyaluronic acid is a much better way of approaching your client, instead of telling them to use a brand-specific serum.

Most people are averse to the idea of changing their preferred brands, or even products, for that matter, without a valid reason. In most cases, either the client is loyal to the brand or is price conscious. As a skincare professional, you need to understand your client’s psychology and recommend changes with complete reasoning. Take into account the difference in product pricing, too.

For in-salon services, both the ingredients and the treatment protocol are equally important. Educate your client on why you are suggesting a particular service, justify the duration and frequency of the service and give them complete information about the benefits, expected results and contraindications. Plan the treatment to cover the span of winter, thereby ensuring that the client gets to flaunt hydrating glowing skin throughout the season.

Customise or Indianise?

What does a ‘customised skincare routine’ actually mean?

A skincare routine, comprising in-salon treatments and products for homecare, which is specifically tailored to an individual’s unique skin type, concerns, lifestyle and goals. Rather than a one-size-fits-all approach, customised skincare addresses each person’s specific needs based on factors like skin texture, hydration levels, sensitivity, pigmentation, age and even external factors like environment, climate, exposure to the sun and pollutants as well as lifestyle choices.

The customisation process can be as simple as a consultation or as advanced as companies using AI-driven tools or quizzes to analyse skin profiles and create bespoke formulations. Some brands even offer DNA-based skincare assessments or products mixed to order for an individual’s unique biochemistry.

As a skincare professional, you can bring in a degree of customisation by recommending a combination of ingredients and designing a step-by-step routine for your client.

Customised skincare often leads to better results because it’s designed to work with, not against, the skin’s natural characteristics. So, why do we need to Indianise our routine? Isn’t customisation enough?

It sure is! But we are over-exposed to social media. We make impulse purchases when we see beauty influencers singing their praises. We disregard the skin type and nationality of the influencer as we are enamoured by the results they are displaying. How many of us are guilty of having unused skincare products on our bathroom shelf? Don’t let your clients make the same mistake! Educate them on the importance of using products and treatments that are designed for Indian skin, especially during winters. When your skin is not treated right during the dry, cold spell, the immediate impact is dull, dehydrated and lustreless skin. But there are also long term effects. The skin loses its ability to retain moisture and fight UV rays. So, come summertime, the skin ends up fighting a desperate battle against the forces of nature. Don’t make your skin work overtime, implement a customised and Indianised skincare routine for the winter months.

Why ingredients matter

Once your skincare analysis and consultation is done, you need to determine which ingredient or combination of ingredients are required to help your client achieve healthy glowing skin.

During winters, it is important to strengthen the epidermal barrier, as it holds the moisture in your skin. The flaky or cracked skin that you see during winters is due to the damage caused to the epidermal barrier. Ceramides help restore this topmost layer of the skin and keep it hydrated, so creams with ceramides are a big Yes.

Our body naturally produces ceramides, too, and it needs vitamin C to do so. Including products with vitamin C are therefore a great addition to the winter skincare routine. Some of the other ingredients that help nourish and moisturise the skin are hyaluronic acid, squalene, shea butter and aloe vera.

There are certain ingredients such as salicylic acid that are best avoided during winters. Similarly, it’s best to use sulphate-, paraben-, alcoholand fragrance-free products to avoid irritating the skin and sensitising it.

Winter wisdom

Annalouise Kenny is the owner and founder of Skin Philosophy. She regularly trained her staff and recognised that there was not enough training provided independently. Leaving her career in 2011, she set up the first ever school focused only on training therapists in advanced laser and skin treatments. She entered the Indian market through the Professional Beauty India show, and today, Kenny has a strong presence in the Indian aesthetic and beauty industry.

What are the most common skin concerns Indian customers face during winter?

As the temperatures lower, our skin does not create as much sweat and oils. While this can be great for congested skin, a client with mildly dry skin might notice their skin becoming a little more dry. Without as much sweat and oil, our skin is missing its natural moisturising barrier, which protects it.

Skincare needs to be switched up during the winter months to products, which are more hydrating and moisturising.

What in-salon treatments would you recommend for combating winter dryness and dullness?

Exfoliation is key to keeping the skin hydrated as it sheds the dull dead skin cells on top and also allows for better penetration of products. I would suggest incorporating mild acids and resurfacers in the treatments and encouraging your clients to do peels, too.

How do you customise in-salon winter skincare rituals for different skin types?

Moisturisation and exfoliation are a must in all treatments during winter, so with each treatment make sure to have a good exfoliating treatment, a hydrating mask and a massage with essential oils. This stimulates blood flow and brings nutrients to the skin through increased blood flow and also helps the nourishing ingredients to penetrate the skin better.

What ingredients or products are essential for hydrating and nourishing the skin in winter?

Hyaluronic acid with vitamin B are amazing for putting water into the skin, but we also need to seal in that water with nourishing oils such as hibiscus oil or vitamin E oil.

Which product category (scrub, serum, moisturiser, oil, etc) should be used and which should be avoided in winter skincare rituals?

We need to exfoliate but over- exfoliation can cause sensitivity, so make sure to exfoliate 1-2 times a week only. Physical scrubs should not be used on thin, sensitive skin or breakouts. Alpha hydroxy acids are a better option. Lactic acid is a gentle exfoliant that attracts water molecules at the same time.

How can customers maintain their in-salon treatment results at home during the winter?

Good products affect how your skin remains throughout the day, so homecare is a must. Some moisturisers will sit on your skin and cause spots but a good moisturiser will penetrate and hydrate your skin to the deeper levels. So, investing in good skincare is everything.

Are there any winter-specific skincare myths that customers should be aware of?

Even though it’s winter, you still need to wear an SPF every day. Re-apply multiple times a day to avoid pigmentation.

Winter can be harsh on the skin, but with a tailored routine, it’s possible to maintain a healthy, glowing complexion. Using Kenny’s approach of blending science with skin philosophy, you too can empower customers with knowledge and tools for skin resilience—even in the toughest of weathers.

The Beauty of Skincare

Makeup, Hair and Beauty Educator Santhoshi Srikar wears many hats. Apart from heading the Plush Lounge, she is also the brand ambassador for Forever52, Recode and Character Cosmetics. Despite balancing her busy schedule of teaching, brand collaborations and salon duties, Srikar thrives on her passion for creativity in hair and makeup.

A healthy glowing skin is the best foundation for immaculate makeup, and Srikar shares her thoughts about tailor-made skincare routine in an exclusive interaction.

What are the most common skincare concerns you see today in your clients?

Common skincare concerns include dehydration, hyperpigmentation, acne, sensitivity and premature ageing due to environmental stress and improper routines.

The biggest skincare mistake you can make is over-exfoliation as it damages the skin’s barrier.

Key ingredients for addressing these concerns:

✽ Hydration: Hyaluronic acid and glycerine

✽ Pigmentation: Vitamin C and niacinamide

✽ Acne: Salicylic acid and tea tree oil

✽ Sensitivity: Aloe vera and ceramides

✽ Ageing: Retinol and peptides

How do you prep the skin before applying makeup?

Skin prep before makeup includes the following steps:

✽ Cleanse

✽ Tone

✽ Apply serum

✽ Moisturise

✽ Finish with a primer for smooth makeup application

To identify the proper skin type of the client, it is important to consult them, inspect their skin and ask about their skincare routine. Patch tests help with skin sensitivities.

What is your take on natural versus synthetic ingredients in skincare?

Both natural and synthetic ingredients can be valuable in skincare, as long as the focus is on their safety, efficacy and compatibility with the client’s skin.

What advice do you give to your students and aspiring makeup artists?

Prioritise the client’s skin health by understanding their skin type and educating them on proper skincare. Tailored skincare ensures better makeup application and lasting results.

What role does diet and lifestyle play in achieving glowing skin?

Healthy eating, staying hydrated, getting enough sleep, and managing stress all contribute to glowing skin. When paired with a good skincare routine, these lifestyle habits can make a significant difference.

What upcoming skincare trends do you see shaping the industry?

Upcoming trends, which include personalised skincare, sustainability and minimalist routines, are shaping the future of skincare.

Conclusion

Incorporating a tailored skincare routine is the key to achieving flawless makeup and healthy, glowing skin. You can take your client’s beauty game to the next level by addressing their skin’s unique needs and treating it accordingly.