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How can I create a strip-lash effect with lash extensions?

Currently, there are many lash extension trends that can be found online through social media. These trends typically cross over from strip lashes, which have more defined, obvious styles. Many lash artists find clients asking for these strip-lash styles at their lash extension appointments. As a lash artist, it’s exciting to be able to recreate these specific looks for clients, but it does take some practice and consideration.

In my business, I find that more and more clients are requesting the “strip-lash look”. They want to see “spikes” of longer extensions blended in with the rest of the set for a more alluring look. This strip-lash effect is best created with volume lashes and can be approached in a few different ways, depending on how dramatic the client would like to go.

But first, keep in mind that not all requested lash styles will be available to your clients. It is a lash artist’s job to analyse each client’s natural lashes to determine if the look they’re wanting is even possible. If it’s not available to the client, always consult with them first and offer other suggestions. For example, if they have short natural lashes and want the longest extensions, recommend building a lot of volume instead of focusing on length.

The first step in creating a strip-lash effect is to determine how dramatic the spikes will be. If the client wants a dramatic look, use closed-volume fans of two extensions. If the client wants a more subtle look, choose classic extensions for the spikes.

Next, determine the lengths you will use for the spikes. Go no longer than double the client’s natural lash length. First, find the client’s longest natural lashes and measure a few different lengths of extensions you could potentially use. Typically, the spikes will be 12mm or 14mm. The rest of the set should be shorter than the spikes, so choose the remaining appropriate lengths. Then choose the diameters that suit your client’s natural lashes. To create a lot of texture, use multiple diameters in the set such as .03mm and .05mm. If the natural lashes can handle it, the spikes can be thicker for added effect. For example, create closed fans of two .07mm extensions or use one .2mm classic extensions.

Apply the spikes to the longest natural lashes. Space them out evenly and do not apply any spikes near the inner corners as it can look too unnatural. Use a handheld mirror to check your placement and adjust if needed.

Once you have designed the spikes, fill in the rest of the set with volume extensions that are a little shorter than the spikes. I find my clients typically want a more subtle approach, so I prefer using classic extensions for the spikes while filling in the rest of the set with softly textured volume. I personally use the Novalash technique for this and in all my services. This technique has helped me achieve success quickly while winning competitions.

As it takes time to perfect these unique styles, I recommend finding a few clients who are open to you practising these techniques on them until you are ready to launch the service to everyone.

Michelle Williams has been doing lashes for five years. She runs I-Lash by Michelle in Elgin, Scotland, and in 2021 she won Lash Artist of the Year and the Fan’s Choice award in Novalash’s global Lashoff competition.